Yesterday was my first afternoon "off"! Although I have lots of work left, I just couldn't ignore the call from the ocean! The waves were on! Surfed from 13 30 to about 16:30, had some banana bread and a sip of water, and headed back out at 17: 00 till dark!
Had such an amazing time!
Here's a little video clip of the surf check at the local this morning..
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